The Ultimate Guide to Climbing Ropes: Everything You Need to Know in One Article!

Can You Step on a Climbing Rope?
Every time you go to the crag, you inevitably hear the admonition: "Don't step on the rope!" Repeated reminders from instructors ingrain this "taboo" of the outdoor community deeply into our minds. Afterwards, every time we see a climbing rope lying on the ground, we tiptoe around it carefully.

In fact, from a climber's perspective, the climbing rope is their "lifeline," and its importance is self-evident. Whether mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, caving, canyoning, or even rescue work, if there is a problem with the climbing rope, it could very likely lead to a serious accident.

Modern climbing ropes mainly consist of two parts: the "core" and the "sheath." After heat treatment, the core fibers become elastic and can stretch; this is the "functional part" of the rope. The sheath primarily serves a protective role, preventing external abrasion from damaging the core.

Stepping on, dragging, or using the rope as a seat pad is prohibited to prevent sharp objects, rock debris, or fine sand from entering the rope's fibers and cutting them.

Climbing ropes can be divided into static and dynamic ropes based on their elongation properties.

Static Rope
Static ropes have low elongation. They hardly extend at all during a fall and absorb very little impact force, transferring almost all the impact force directly to the protection system and the fallen climber. In this scenario, even a very short fall can generate a tremendous impact force on the system. Therefore, static ropes are commonly used for activities where severe falls are unlikely, such as rappelling, SRT (Single Rope Technique), and rescue operations.

Simultaneously, static ropes generally possess characteristics such as high temperature resistance, high strength, good toughness, and strong tear resistance.

Dynamic Rope
Dynamic ropes, on the other hand, have high dynamic elongation. They can stretch under load, absorbing impact force and providing cushioning. Thus, they are more widely used in activities with a risk of falling, like rock climbing and ice climbing, because they can buffer and absorb the falling force that could injure the climber through their own extension.

Of course, the elongation of a dynamic rope cannot be too high either, typically below 8%. Otherwise, it would be like bungee jumping, with the climber bouncing up and down dangerously after a fall.

What are UIAA, CE, and EN for climbing ropes?
Firstly, any climbing rope purchased must have UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) or CE (European Conformity) certification.

Besides UIAA and CE, a newer set of European standards, abbreviated EN, is gradually being accepted by many countries worldwide.

Regarding climbing equipment, although most EN standards are based on UIAA, they are more stringent. EN imposes additional requirements on how ropes should be constructed and the performance levels they must achieve under controlled conditions.

What are Single, Half, and Twin Ropes?
Climbing ropes can be categorized as single, half, and twin ropes.

Single Rope (SINGLE): Can be used alone. Typically 9.4–11mm in diameter, weighing 60–80g per meter. Mainly suitable for sport climbing.

Half Rope (HALF/DOUBLE): Must be used as a pair at all times except during rappelling, with each rope clipped alternately into different protection points. Typically 8.1–9.1mm in diameter, weighing 47–54g per meter. Half ropes are flexible and are often used for climbing complex terrain, such as traditional climbing and ice/alpine environments.

Twin Rope (TWIN): Must be used as a pair simultaneously in all situations, with both ropes clipped into the same protection point. Typically 7.4–8mm in diameter, weighing 41–43g per meter. Twin ropes are safer as they run together through each protection point and are also suitable for ice and alpine routes.

UIAA Test Indicators

1. Fall Test: Relevant experiments show that the human body won't be injured under an impact force less than 15 times its body weight. Therefore, the UIAA test requires a single rope to withstand more than 5 consecutive falls with an 80kg weight, and the impact force on the first fall must not exceed 12kN. A half rope must withstand more than 5 consecutive falls with a 55kg weight, and the impact force on the first fall must not exceed 8kN.

2. Elongation (Static): This refers to static elongation. UIAA requires that under an 80kg load, the elongation of single and half ropes must not exceed 8%, and for twin ropes, it must not exceed 10%. Most single ropes have an elongation of around 6%. Lighter ropes tend to elongate more.

3. Impact Force: UIAA certification only requires that the value for the first fall does not exceed the specified limit; the test result is an average of three tests. Data for impact force is not taken from subsequent falls. Tests on single ropes show the difference between the first and fourth impact force values can range from 28% to 59%.
   Additionally, when a climber falls, they are ultimately stopped by the pulling force of the rope. The force required to stop a falling object is far greater than its weight, so the rope exerts a tremendous pulling force on the human body during this process. UIAA requires that this impact force must never exceed 12kN (approx. 1.2 tons), as beyond this force, the harness might injure the climber's waist.

4. Cut Resistance Index: A sharp edge cutting the rope laterally can have fatal consequences because a rope under load can be easily cut by a sharp object. In the standard UIAA cut resistance test, an 80kg weight is dropped 5 meters, and the rope runs over a横向放置的 (transversely placed) sharp edge with a radius of 5mm. The rope must not suffer any damage in the first such test to pass the cut resistance test.

5. Sheath Abrasion Resistance Index: A 10kg weight is attached to the rope and dragged longitudinally against a rotating abrasive wheel until the rope's sheath is worn through (what climbers often call "showing white" or core shot). The time it takes to wear through the sheath directly reflects the rope's longitudinal abrasion resistance. Generally, dynamic climbing ropes with the PERDUR mark last over 30% longer in similar tests compared to other ropes.

6. Water Repellency: Water-repellent ropes are often called dry ropes. The sheaths of these ropes are usually treated with a Teflon (or similar) water-repellent coating. A rope's strength decreases by more than 20% when wet. In mountaineering, a non-water-repellent rope that gets wet from snow and then freezes stiff loses strength dramatically, which is very dangerous.

   Dry ropes offer the following advantages:
   (1) They not only prevent water from entering the core but also dry quickly after getting wet.
   (2) Minimal weight change after water immersion.
   (3) They rarely freeze stiff after water immersion.
   (4) Longer service life.

For UIAA-certified DYNAMIC ropes, the two main indicators are First Impact Force (IMPACT FORCE) and UIAA Falls Held (UIAA FALLS). However, many domestic climbers are unaware that three other indicators are also key when choosing a dynamic rope: Cut Resistance Index, Sheath Abrasion Resistance Index, and Water Repellency.

Statistics from domestic climbers show that over 90% of dynamic climbing ropes wear through their sheath long before reaching the UIAA FALLS lifespan indicated by the standard. Therefore, cut resistance, abrasion resistance, and water repellency must be considered when choosing a climbing rope.

Climbing Rope Care and Maintenance

1. Things a climbing rope MUST NOT come into contact with:
   ① Fire, strong ultraviolet light.
   ② Oils, alcohol, paint, paint solvents, and acidic/alkaline chemicals.
   ③ Sharp objects.

2. When using the rope, place it on a rope bag, tarp, or ground cloth. Do not step on, drag, or use it as a seat pad to prevent sharp objects from cutting the fibers or rock debris/sand from entering the rope and slowly cutting the fibers from within.

3. Avoid direct contact with water, ice, and sharp edges whenever possible. For example: use a dry-treated rope for climbing in wet or icy places; do not run the rope directly over bolts, fixed anchors, slings, or quickdraws; when rappelling, protect the section of rope in contact with the rock edge with a cloth or rope bag.

4. Inspect the rope after each use and coil it properly. To avoid kinks, use the butterfly coil or other methods that separate the rope into bights before coiling.

5. Avoid frequent washing. If necessary, use cold water and a specialized (neutral pH) cleaner. Washing in cold water minimizes shrinkage. After rinsing thoroughly (no cleaner residue), allow it to air dry naturally in a cool, ventilated place. Do not expose it to direct sunlight or use a dryer or hair dryer, as these can significantly damage the rope's interior.

6. Keep a log of the rope's usage: note any visible damage, number and type of falls held, usage environment (abrasive or sharp terrain), if it was stepped on (particularly important in canyoneering and ice/snow climbing), and wear on surfaces of devices like ATCs (which can damage the sheath).

As a "lifeline," every climbing rope is carefully selected. Beyond requiring professional certification, it's essential to choose the right rope for the specific activity. Remember to protect your rope well during outdoor activities – not only does it extend the rope's life, but more importantly, it is responsible for our safety!