EN1891 Standards and Testing for Static Ropes
Diameter
The diameter of a static rope is measured under a load of 10 kg. The rope diameter must range from a minimum of 8.5 mm to a maximum of 16 mm.
Static Elongation
Static elongation is tested by applying a load of 150 kg to the rope. The elongation must not exceed 5%.
Static Strength
Depending on the rope diameter and material used, EN1891 requires a minimum static strength of 22 kN for Type A ropes and 18 kN for Type B ropes. Manufacturers must display this information on the rope's label.
※Note: During actual use, it is recommended that the load on the static rope does not exceed 1/10 of the indicated static strength.
Material Requirements:
EN1891 mandates that the materials used to manufacture static ropes must have a melting point higher than 195°C. Manufacturers should not use polyethylene or polypropylene as raw materials.
Sheath Slippage Relative to the Core
This parameter is crucial when using static ropes for rappelling. Excessive sheath slippage can cause the sheath to bunch up, obstructing the braking mechanism and potentially endangering the rappeller. For certified static ropes (with a diameter below 12 mm), the sheath slippage should not exceed 40 mm per 2 meters for Type A ropes or 15 mm per 2 meters for Type B ropes.
The JIAOLONG brand static ropes produced by Qingdao Huakai Ocean Technology Co., Ltd. (Haili Group) achieve zero sheath slippage.
Dynamic Performance
As shown in the figure above, a 2-meter static rope is tested with figure-eight knots tied at both ends, fixed to anchor points and loaded. Type A ropes are loaded with 100 kg, and Type B ropes with 80 kg, subjected to five falls with a fall factor of 1. Certified static ropes must withstand five such falls.
Knotability
Knotability is a critical requirement for climbing ropes. How is it measured? A section of the rope is tied with a single knot and loaded with 10 kg (as shown above). The inner diameter of the knot is then measured. The knotability factor is calculated by dividing the inner knot diameter by the rope diameter. For static ropes, this factor must not exceed 1.2. A static rope with poor knotability (factor greater than 1.2) is difficult to knot.
EN1891: Standards for Static Ropes
Type A Rope
Rope Diameter: 8.5–16 mm
Knotability Factor: Max. 1.2
Sheath Slippage: Max. 40 mm
Elongation: Max. 5%
Impact Force: Max. 6 kN
Number of Falls (Fall Factor f=1): Min. 5
Strength Without Knots: 22 kN
Strength With Knots: Min. 15 kN (3 minutes)
Type B Rope
Rope Diameter: 8.5–16 mm
Knotability Factor: Max. 1.2
Sheath Slippage: Max. 15 mm
Elongation: Max. 5%
Impact Force: Max. 6 kN
Number of Falls (Fall Factor f=1): Min. 5
Strength Without Knots: 18 kN
Strength With Knots: Min. 12 kN (3 minutes)
EN 564: Standards for Accessory Cord
Diameter
The testing method for accessory cords is similar to that for climbing and static ropes but less stringent. Accessory cord diameters must be 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 mm. Smaller diameters (2 mm and 3 mm) are not covered by EN 564.
Strength
EN 564 requires the following minimum strengths for accessory cords:
Diameter 4 mm: Min. Strength 3.2 kN
Diameter 5 mm: Min. Strength 5.0 kN
Diameter 6 mm: Min. Strength 7.2 kN
Diameter 7 mm: Min. Strength 9.8 kN
Diameter 8 mm: Min. Strength 12.8 kN