EN892 Standards and Testing for Dynamic Ropes
Diameter
The diameter of a climbing rope is measured using a caliper under specific loads: a single rope under 10 kg, a half rope under 6 kg, and twin ropes under 5 kg.
Weight
Rope weight is indicated per meter. Single ropes typically weigh 52–88 grams/meter, half ropes around 50 grams/meter, and twin ropes around 42 grams/meter. The core must constitute at least 50% of the total rope weight.
Number of Standard Falls
EN892 requires that a single rope withstand at least 5 falls with an 80 kg load, and a half rope withstand at least 5 falls with a 55 kg load. Twin ropes must withstand at least 12 falls with an 80 kg load applied to both ropes simultaneously. The number of falls a rope can endure during testing directly reflects its safety margin (or strength). In practice, a new rope under proper use and conditions is unlikely to break from a sudden impact. Ropes only lose strength and safety due to nylon aging, damage, or moisture, which can degrade nylon fibers.
Maximum Impact Force
Maximum impact force refers to the force absorbed by the rope during the first fall under standardized conditions. During testing, the impact force increases with each subsequent fall, and the rate of increase determines the rope’s fall endurance. Higher fall endurance indicates a longer service life. Real-world climbing or training scenarios differ significantly from lab conditions. In testing, the rope end is fixed, whereas in actual climbing, the rope can slide through the belay system, and the belayer dynamically arrests the fall. This dynamic belaying absorbs part of the kinetic energy, reducing the impact force. Thus, dynamic belaying is critical in climbing.
Note: The fall factor (fall distance divided by rope length) is more critical than fall distance alone in determining impact force. A 5-meter fall with a fall factor of 1 generates far less impact force than a 5-meter fall with a fall factor of 2. The impact force during a fall is absorbed by the active rope length (shown in red in the diagram).
■ Left: Fall distance H=5m, active rope length L=5m, fall factor f=5/5=1, lower impact force. Correct!
■ Right: Fall distance H=5m, active rope length L=2.5m, fall factor f=5/2.5=2, higher impact force. Dangerous!
Sheath Slippage
A specialized machine measures the distance the sheath slips from the core under load (as shown in the diagram). EN892 requires that during a test where the rope extends 1930 mm, the sheath slippage must not exceed 40 mm. Excessive sheath slippage during climbing can cause bulging. If the rope end is not properly sealed, the core may protrude, or the sheath may extend beyond the core.
JIAOLONG brand climbing and dynamic ropes produced by Qingdao Huakai Ocean Technology Co., Ltd. (Haili Group) utilize advanced finishing techniques to achieve zero sheath slippage.
Static Elongation
Static elongation is the ratio of rope extension under an 80 kg load. EN892 requires that static elongation not exceed 10% for single and twin ropes (tested simultaneously) and 12% for half ropes.
Dynamic Elongation
Dynamic elongation measures the rope’s extension during the first standard fall. EN892 requires it not to exceed 40%. Dynamic elongation is a better indicator of climbing and dynamic rope performance than static elongation.
Knotability
Knotability is a critical requirement for climbing ropes. It is measured by tying a single knot in the rope, applying a 10 kg load (as shown in the diagram), and measuring the inner knot diameter. The knotability factor is calculated by dividing the inner knot diameter by the rope diameter. This factor must not exceed 1.1. A rope with poor knotability (factor >1.1) is difficult to knot and may not slide smoothly through belay devices or carabiners.
JIAOLONG brand climbing and dynamic ropes produced by Qingdao Huakai Ocean Technology Co., Ltd. (Haili Group) have a knotability factor of 0.8–0.9, making them highly flexible.
Qingdao Huakai Ocean Technology Co., Ltd. (Haili Group) has established its own testing laboratory, including a drop tower, to evaluate rope performance. New products are tested in-house to obtain all technical data before being sent to European laboratories for certification.
EN892: Standards for Dynamic Ropes
Single Rope
Rope Diameter: Not defined
Rope Weight: Not defined
Sheath Slippage: ≤20 mm
Static Elongation: ≤10%*
Dynamic Elongation: ≤40%+
Impact Force (First Fall): ≤12 kN
Number of Standard Falls: ≥5+
Half Rope
Rope Diameter: Not defined
Rope Weight: Not defined
Sheath Slippage: ≤20 mm
Static Elongation: ≤12%***
Dynamic Elongation: ≤40%***
Impact Force (First Fall): ≤8 kN***
Number of Standard Falls: ≥5***
Twin Rope
Rope Diameter: Not defined
Rope Weight: Not defined
Sheath Slippage: ≤20 mm
Static Elongation: ≤10%**
Dynamic Elongation: ≤40%++
Impact Force (First Fall): ≤12 kN++
Number of Standard Falls: ≥12++
* Tested with a single strand
** Tested with two strands
*** Tested with a single strand and 55 kg load
Tested with a single strand and 80 kg load
++ Tested with two strands and 80 kg load